Neapolis
is the southernmost town of mainland Greece
in
Peloponnese,
in the area refered to as Vatica in the Peninsula of Epidayros Limira in
Laconia. Neapolis has grown since the mid-19th century from a quiet small
fishing village to a busy summer resort and is today a major port and the
commercial centre and the hub of the social and night life of the whole
Vatica region. It is a lively market town of many facets yet peaceful and
easygoing, with something to please every visitor. Its warm and hospitable
inhabitants are chiefly seamen, fishermen, farmers and merchants. Neapoli
is particularly known for its Vatica onions, its excellent olive oil and
its fishing. Water sports, broad sandy beaches and secluded caves, beautiful
fishing villages, taverns and waterside cafes, mountain springs amidst
plain and walnut trees, numerous archaeological sites
and Byzantine monasteries and churches are among the region's many attractions.
Neapoli is an ideal base for touring further afield: Cape Maleas, the
traditional Vatica villages, Elafonisos with its famous sandy beaches,
Kythera, Antikythera, Crete, the majestic Byzantine fortress towns of Monemvasia
and Zaraka, the towers of Mani, Gytheio, Sparta and Mistra, are all within
reach from Neapolis.
History
Neapolis is built on the site of ancient Boiai (pronounced Vi-e) a city
founded in the second millenium B.C. by King Boias, a descendent of Hercules
(see a map showing the cemetary of ancient Vie
and other findings). Boiai was populated by the inhabitants of three nearby
Mycenaean cities, namely Etis, Sidi and Aphrodisias. An important port
of the Spartans during the Peloponnesian Wars. During Roman times the city
was a member of the Free Laconian League. Its economic and cultural fortune
peaked during the hellenistic era. During Byzantine times, the name Boiai
became Vatica, a name which is today used to refer to the region's 12 villages.
In his 1939 book "I Epidayros
Limira", A. Katsoris claims that Vatica was founded by Maniot fisheremen
in the 9th c.AD. He describes the people in the region as defiant,
audacious and dauntless to the extend that an imperial decree prohibited
them from entering Monemvasia - a claim which is also adopted by
Miller. In the course of its history the region shared
the tragic fate of the Peloponnese and indeed the whole
of the Greek world and , since the 4th so called "crusade" of the
barbaric westerners in 1204,
it experienced numerous invasions and brutal occupations
with only short intervals of freedom. Since the Great Betrayal
of the 4th "crusade", its rulers included the Venetians,
the Greek noble Monemvasia families of Sofianos, Mamonas and Daimonogiannis,
who were offered the castle and land in Vatica after the conquest
of Monemvasia by W. Villeardouin, the Paleologos
Despots of the Morea, the barbarian turks after the suck of Mistra
the followed the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the Venetian
Admiral Loredano, who took Vatica in 1463 as a reprisal for
the conquest of Argos by the turkish mob of Isa Pasa, the turks
of Vagiazit Pasa from 1500, the Venetians from 1686 to 1715 and again the
turks, untill the Greek revolution of 1821 when it was finally
liberated.
As its name suggests,
Neapoli is a relatively new town, founded in the mid-19th century. After
Greece's liberation from the Turkish rule in 1821, the owners of the fields
where Neapoli now stands, began to settle permanently in the area, mainly
around the area which was later called Vrontas. Smaller settlements scattered
along the roads leading north and northwest eventually merged to form today's
"suburban sprawl". Originally refered to as Pezoula,the new settlement
formed part of the administrative region of Boiai whose capital was Lachi.
Boiai was one of the two administrative regions of the time, along with
that of Malea with Faraklo as its capital. In 1840 the 2 regions merged
to a single administrative region (Boiai) with Pezoula as its capital.
It was officially named Neapoli in 1845 and its town
plan was drawn up soon after.
Thus with the sun breasting the sea that whitewashes the
opposite shore of day,
the latching and pangs of thirst are reckoned twice and
three times over,
the old wound is reckoned from the beginning
and the heart is roasted dry by the heat like Vatica onions
left by the door.
Giannis Ritsos, Romiosini
Around the Vatica Villages
Mesohori and the Castle.
Dating from Medieval times, the first known reference to it being in 1200AD.
During the Turkish occupation its economy remained strong. Today, many
ruined buildings remain and few inhabitants. The Byzantine chapel of Aghioi
Theodoroi contains remnants of richly painted frescoes. Post Byzantine
churces include the Church of Transfiguration, church of Ipapanti, Aghia
Paraskevi and Aghios Spyridon.
The Castle of Agia Paraskeyi
At the top of a hill below Mesohori, there is a medieval castle. The castle
shares the history of the Vatica region. A. Katsoris, in his 1939
book "I Epidayros Limira", mentions that the castle was known as
the "White Fortress" and was built by the Venetians after 1479, when
with the Turko-Venetian treaty the Venetians kept
Vatica and Monemvasia. The castle though existed long before
the Venetians.
Faraklo
The "Vatica's balcony". It dated from the middle ages and in the 16th century
it was one of the largest towns in the Peloponnese. During the Turkish
occupation it was the most important settlement in the area. After the
Greek revolt of 1821, Faraklo became the capital of the administrative
district of Malea. Many fine old stone buildings still remain. Ruins of
Venetian buildings as well as of a turkish mosque still van be found. Byzantine
monuments include the churches of Aghios Stratis, Aghios Sarapis, and the
smnaller Aghios Nikos, some of which still contain traces of frescoes.
Ano & Kato Kastania
Ano Kastania also dates from Byzantine times, Byzantine churces are still
in evidence. It is a picturesque mountain village situated at the beginning
of a large gorge leading down to a pleasant beach.
Kato Kastania's wealth derives from its surrounding farm land and from
shipping. In recent years this pretty village has become known for its
nearby cave to which unfortunately access has yet been not made availble
to the public. Byzantine churches dating from the 12th century include
Aghios Ioannis, the Taxiarhis, Aghios Ilias, Aghia Sophia, Aghios Andreas.
Below the village at the foot of the mountain is a beautiful unspoiled
beach mostly used by fishermen.
Paradisi
Another historically interesting village dating from Byzantine times, it
was abandonded after the liberation from the Turks. Yet, it still affords
a cool tranquil atmosphere with its plain trees surrounding the Byzantine
monastery of Virgin Mary in the main square.
This Byzantine village is built below the watershed of Mt. Vavila. The
Byzantine chapel of Aghios Georgios of Vavila contains frescoes. It is
also worth visiting the church of Aghios Charalambos. Down the slope by
the sea is the natural small port of Paliokastro. According to ancient
Greek writers, this was the site of Itis, built by Aineias.
Agios Nikolaos and Cape Maleas
The village of
Agios Nikolaos is the centre of a fertile farming district. There
were settlements here in Mecenaean times in the 2nd century BC as testified
by artifacts found in the area both on land and underwater. The greater
area up to Cape Maleas is famous for its Byzantine churches and monasteries
- Cape Maleas is often refered to as the "small Holy Mountain" (Mount Athos
being the large!). On the Cape itself is the chapel of Aghios Georgios,
built right into the cliff face. A few meters away is the monastery of
Aghia Irini perched on a terrace overlooking the sea. PostByzantine buildings
include aghios Georgios Katzilieris, Aghia Marina, Prophet Ilias, and Aghios
Dimitrios.
Cale Maleas hosts one of the largest lighthouses in the Mediterannean.
Velanidia
The colourful Byzantine village of Velanidia,
17 km from Neapolis, has been suggested as the possible site of the ancient
Mecenaean city of Sidi. Byzantine churches which are interesting for their
architecture and their frescoes include that of Ai Yiannis curved in the
high rock overlooking the village, Aghios Konstantinos, Aghios Ioannis
Chrisostomos, Aghios Myros and the Church of the Saviour.
Villages of the plain
The Vatica plain is rich in archaeological findings. Numerous Mycenean
settlements dating from the 2000 BC have been located while some findings
date from 3000 BC. Kampos, Aghi Apostoli, Aghios Georgios, Megali Spilia,
Viglafia: All the villages of the Vatica fertile plain have grown up since
the middle of the last century, founded by former inhabitants of mountain
villages who settled there in search of a better living. All of these villages
are inland except from Viglafia which is within walking distance of Pounta
beach opposite Elafonisos, while the beach of Neratziona can be reached
by dirt road from Kampos. Aghi Apostoli and Kampos (known as Dermatianika)
are situated on the main road to Neapoli.
Lake Strogyli
Lake Strogylli is located 1,5 Km southeast of Aghios Georgios, by the Pounta
beach and covers an area of 42.5 hectaes. The lake also communicates with
two other small lakes, Lake Neratziona and Lake Magganos. the lake is an
important wetland and has been included in the proposed list of Natura
2000 sites. The local flora, e.g. the rare sea cedars, reeds and babmoo
as well as the sand dune system found in the region, play a very important
role as natural barriers to the wind and wave action coroding the coast.
The most important plant species is Lenaria Hellenica that is endemic
to the area and only grows on the coast of Elafonisos island. Of equal
importance is the fauna of the area. About 80 species of birds have been
recorded, 17 of which nest around lake Strogyli as well as 4 species of
mammals and 2 species of repliles. Turtles of the species Caretta-Caretta
have also been sighted in the area.
Pavlopetri & the Pyramid
Between Lake Strogylli /Pounta
Beach and the island of Elafonisos opposite, N.C Flemming of the British
Institute of the Oceanography discovered in 1967 a submerged settlement
of the Bronge Age. This is referred to as Pavlopetri
after the small island of Pavlopetri which is some 200 meters from the
shore and forms part of the settlement (see here two maps of the west
and east sections of the settlement). The
settlement lies 2-3 meters under the water between the shore and Pavlopetri
island, while some of the tombs from its cemetary may be seen
carved on the rock on the shore. The site was surveyed in 1968 by a Cambridge
Underwater Exploration Group expedition led by R. C. Jones. The results
of the survey were reported in 1969 by A.
Harding, G. Cadogan and R. Howell.
The expedition also reported a small arched Roman bridge (see a map
and a photograph) that was crossing the rock-cut
channel which connects Lake Stroggyli with the sea and which was presumably
used in ancient times to draw salt water into the lake for evaporation.
Unfortunately the Roman bridge does not exist anymore, apparently it was
destroyed (!) immediatelyy after the expedition visited the site. The bridge
suggests the existence of a road of importance in ancient times which probably
went along the edge of the bay to what is now Elafonisos.
The Pyramid
Another interesting archaeological site in the area is the Pyramid. This
can be found 0.9Km W of the general store/OTE station in Viglafia, at the
edge of a sharp cliff which rises ca. 270 m to the north of the dirt road
to Cape Skala (see here for a map and a plan
of the pyramid). The pyramid was first reported by W.M. Leake in his 1806
"Travels in the Morea", and was investigated in 1982-3 by Helena
Fracchia from the University of Alberta. Only the
square foundation of the pyramid is preserved today carved on the rock,
while large ashlar blocks of the pyramid may be seen scattered around and
incorporated
in a sheephold built into the face of the cliff.
The short descriptions of the Vatica villages were mainly based on information provided in the
"Periigitis tis Laconias - Laconia's Traveller" Publication, No 1, 1998, Publisher - Art
Production Idiomorfi, S Antonakou, G Kotsou, Sparta tel. +30-731-82203. Taken without
permission, all rights reserved.
I. Sfikopoulos, Tha Mesaionika kastra tou Moria, Tipografeio E. N
Tsailani - Kerameikou 28 - Athina 1968.
A Katsouris, I Epidayros Limira, Athina 1938.
W Miller, The Latins in the Levant: A History of Frankish greece 1204-1566
W. M. Leake, Travels in the Morea, Vol I, republished by A. M. Hekkrt,
Amsterdam 1968.
Helena Fracchia, The Peloponnesian Pyramids Reconsidered, American
Journal of Archaeology, Vol 89, 1985, pp 683-689
N. C. Flemming, Mediterranean Sea Level Changes, Science Journal, April
1968, pp. 51-55
A Harding, G, Cadogan and R. Howell, Pavlopetri, An Underwater Bronge
Age Town in Laconia, The Annual of the British School of Athens, No 64
1969, pp. 113-142.
Helen Waterhouse and R. Hope Simpson, Prehistoric Laconia: Part II,
The Annual of the British School of Athens, No 56 1961 pp. 114-175
NOTE: This is a personal document
and does not reflect the views of The School of Computer Science,
University of Birmingham. However, their kind provision of the resources
for keeping these www pages is gratefully acknowledged.
Come to the luminous beaches, -he murmured to himself
here where the colours are celebrating - look -
here where the royal family never once passed
with its closed carriages and its official envoys.
Come, it won't do for you to be seen - he used to say
-