"The land does not have steel rings
to take her on their shoulder and leave, 
neither can they, no matter how thirsty they are,  
sweeten the sea with half a dram of clear water" 
 G. Seferis 
 CYPRUS: Invaded and Occupied   since 1974     DO NOT FORGET 

This landscape is harsh as silence
it hugs to its breast the scorching stones,
clasps in the light its orphaned olive trees and vineyards
clenches its teeth. There is no water. Light only,
Roads vanish in light and the shadow of the sheephold is made of iron
Giannis Ritsos, Romiosini
 

Neapolis, Vatica, Laconia, Greece

DEDICATION

To my late grantparents, Marouli Kontomina and Panagioti Xarami.
Memory and Gratitude

Neapolis is the southernmost town of mainland Greece in Peloponnese, in the area refered to as Vatica in the Peninsula of Epidayros Limira in Laconia. Neapolis has grown since the mid-19th century from a quiet small fishing village to a busy summer resort and is today a major port and the commercial centre and the hub of the social and night life of the whole Vatica region. It is a lively market town of many facets yet peaceful and easygoing, with something to please every visitor. Its warm and hospitable inhabitants are chiefly seamen, fishermen, farmers and merchants. Neapoli is particularly known for its Vatica onions, its excellent olive oil and its fishing. Water sports, broad sandy beaches and secluded caves, beautiful fishing villages, taverns and waterside cafes, mountain springs amidst plain and walnut trees, numerous archaeological sites and Byzantine monasteries and churches are among the region's many attractions.

Neapoli is an ideal base for touring further afield: Cape Maleas, the traditional Vatica villages, Elafonisos with its famous sandy beaches, Kythera, Antikythera, Crete, the majestic Byzantine fortress towns of Monemvasia and Zaraka, the towers of Mani, Gytheio, Sparta and Mistra, are all within reach from Neapolis.


 
 

History

Neapolis is built on the site of ancient Boiai (pronounced Vi-e) a city founded in the second millenium B.C. by King Boias, a descendent of Hercules (see a map showing the cemetary of ancient Vie and other findings). Boiai was populated by the inhabitants of three nearby Mycenaean cities, namely Etis, Sidi and Aphrodisias. An important port of the Spartans during the Peloponnesian Wars. During Roman times the city was a member of the Free Laconian League. Its economic and cultural fortune peaked during the hellenistic era. During Byzantine times, the name Boiai became Vatica, a name which is today used to refer to the region's 12 villages.

In his 1939 book "I Epidayros Limira", A. Katsoris claims that Vatica was founded by Maniot fisheremen in the 9th c.AD.  He  describes the people in the region as defiant, audacious and dauntless to the extend that an imperial decree prohibited them from entering Monemvasia - a claim which is also adopted  by Miller.  In the course of its history the region  shared  the tragic  fate of  the Peloponnese and indeed  the whole of the Greek world and , since the  4th so called "crusade" of the barbaric westerners in 1204, it experienced  numerous  invasions and brutal occupations  with only short intervals of  freedom.  Since the Great Betrayal  of the 4th  "crusade",  its rulers included  the Venetians, the Greek noble Monemvasia families of Sofianos, Mamonas and Daimonogiannis, who were offered the castle  and land in Vatica after the conquest of Monemvasia by W. Villeardouin, the Paleologos Despots of the Morea, the  barbarian turks after the suck of Mistra the followed the fall of Constantinople  in 1453,  the Venetian Admiral  Loredano, who took Vatica  in 1463 as a reprisal for the conquest of Argos by the turkish mob of  Isa Pasa,  the turks of Vagiazit Pasa from 1500, the Venetians from 1686 to 1715 and again the turks,  untill the Greek revolution of 1821 when it  was finally liberated.

   As its name suggests, Neapoli is a relatively new town, founded in the mid-19th century. After Greece's liberation from the Turkish rule in 1821, the owners of the fields where Neapoli now stands, began to settle permanently in the area, mainly around the area which was later called Vrontas. Smaller settlements scattered along the roads leading north and northwest eventually merged to form today's "suburban sprawl". Originally refered to as Pezoula,the new settlement formed part of the administrative region of Boiai whose capital was Lachi. Boiai was one of the two administrative regions of the time, along with that of Malea with Faraklo as its capital. In 1840 the 2 regions merged to a single administrative region (Boiai) with Pezoula as its capital. It was officially named Neapoli in 1845 and its town plan was drawn up soon after.
 

Thus with the sun breasting the sea that whitewashes the opposite shore of day,
the latching and pangs of thirst are reckoned twice and three times over,
the old wound is reckoned from the beginning
and the heart is roasted dry by the heat like Vatica onions left by the door.
Giannis Ritsos, Romiosini


 

Around the Vatica Villages

Mesohori and the Castle.

Dating from Medieval times, the first known reference to it being in 1200AD. During the Turkish occupation its economy remained strong. Today, many ruined buildings remain and few inhabitants. The Byzantine chapel of Aghioi Theodoroi contains remnants of richly painted frescoes. Post Byzantine churces include the Church of Transfiguration, church of Ipapanti, Aghia Paraskevi and Aghios Spyridon.

The Castle of Agia Paraskeyi

At the top of a hill below Mesohori, there is a medieval castle. The castle shares the history of the Vatica region.  A. Katsoris, in his 1939 book "I Epidayros Limira", mentions that the castle  was known as the "White Fortress" and was built by the Venetians after 1479,  when with the Turko-Venetian treaty the Venetians kept
Vatica and Monemvasia.  The  castle though existed long before the Venetians.
 

Faraklo

The "Vatica's balcony". It dated from the middle ages and in the 16th century it was one of the largest towns in the Peloponnese. During the Turkish occupation it was the most important settlement in the area. After the Greek revolt of 1821, Faraklo became the capital of the administrative district of Malea. Many fine old stone buildings still remain. Ruins of Venetian buildings as well as of a turkish mosque still van be found. Byzantine monuments include the churches of Aghios Stratis, Aghios Sarapis, and the smnaller Aghios Nikos, some of which still contain traces of frescoes.

Ano & Kato Kastania

Ano Kastania also dates from Byzantine times, Byzantine churces are still in evidence. It is a picturesque mountain village situated at the beginning of a large gorge leading down to a pleasant beach.

Kato Kastania's wealth derives from its surrounding farm land and from shipping. In recent years this pretty village has become known for its nearby cave to which unfortunately access has yet been not made availble to the public. Byzantine churches dating from the 12th century include Aghios Ioannis, the Taxiarhis, Aghios Ilias, Aghia Sophia, Aghios Andreas. Below the village at the foot of the mountain is a beautiful unspoiled beach mostly used by fishermen.

Paradisi

Another historically interesting village dating from Byzantine times, it was abandonded after the liberation from the Turks. Yet, it still affords a cool tranquil atmosphere with its plain trees surrounding the Byzantine monastery of Virgin Mary in the main square.

Paradeisi has now its own www page!!!


Lachi

This Byzantine village is built below the watershed of Mt. Vavila. The Byzantine chapel of Aghios Georgios of Vavila contains frescoes. It is also worth visiting the church of Aghios Charalambos. Down the slope by the sea is the natural small port of Paliokastro. According to ancient Greek writers, this was the site of Itis, built by Aineias.

Agios Nikolaos and Cape Maleas

The village  of   Agios Nikolaos  is the centre of a fertile farming district. There were settlements here in Mecenaean times in the 2nd century BC as testified by artifacts found in the area both on land and underwater. The greater area up to Cape Maleas is famous for its Byzantine churches and monasteries - Cape Maleas is often refered to as the "small Holy Mountain" (Mount Athos being the large!). On the Cape itself is the chapel of Aghios Georgios, built right into the cliff face. A few meters away is the monastery of Aghia Irini perched on a terrace overlooking the sea. PostByzantine buildings include aghios Georgios Katzilieris, Aghia Marina, Prophet Ilias, and Aghios Dimitrios.

Cale Maleas hosts one of the largest lighthouses in the Mediterannean.

Velanidia

The colourful Byzantine village of Velanidia, 17 km from Neapolis, has been suggested as the possible site of the ancient Mecenaean city of Sidi. Byzantine churches which are interesting for their architecture and their frescoes include that of Ai Yiannis curved in the high rock overlooking the village, Aghios Konstantinos, Aghios Ioannis Chrisostomos, Aghios Myros and the Church of the Saviour.

Villages of the plain

The Vatica plain is rich in archaeological findings. Numerous Mycenean settlements dating from the 2000 BC have been located while some findings date from 3000 BC. Kampos, Aghi Apostoli, Aghios Georgios, Megali Spilia, Viglafia: All the villages of the Vatica fertile plain have grown up since the middle of the last century, founded by former inhabitants of mountain villages who settled there in search of a better living. All of these villages are inland except from Viglafia which is within walking distance of Pounta  beach opposite Elafonisos, while the beach of Neratziona can be reached by dirt road from Kampos. Aghi Apostoli and Kampos (known as Dermatianika) are situated on the main road to Neapoli.

Lake Strogyli

Lake Strogylli is located 1,5 Km southeast of Aghios Georgios, by the Pounta  beach and covers an area of 42.5 hectaes. The lake also communicates with two other small lakes, Lake Neratziona and Lake Magganos. the lake is an important wetland and has been included in the proposed list of Natura 2000 sites. The local flora, e.g. the rare sea cedars, reeds and babmoo as well as the sand dune system found in the region, play a very important role as natural barriers to the wind and wave action coroding the coast. The most important plant species is Lenaria Hellenica that is endemic to the area and only grows on the coast of Elafonisos island. Of equal importance is the fauna of the area. About 80 species of birds have been recorded, 17 of which nest around lake Strogyli as well as 4 species of mammals and 2 species of repliles. Turtles of the species Caretta-Caretta have also been sighted in the area.

Pavlopetri & the Pyramid

Between Lake Strogylli /Pounta  Beach and the island of Elafonisos opposite, N.C Flemming of the British Institute of the Oceanography discovered in 1967 a submerged settlement of the Bronge Age. This is referred to as Pavlopetri after the small island of Pavlopetri which is some 200 meters from the shore and forms part of the settlement (see here two maps of the west  and east sections of the settlement). The settlement lies 2-3 meters under the water between the shore and Pavlopetri island, while some of the tombs from its cemetary may be seen carved on the rock on the shore. The site was surveyed in 1968 by a Cambridge Underwater Exploration Group expedition led by R. C. Jones. The results of the survey were reported in 1969 by A. Harding, G. Cadogan and R. Howell.

The expedition also reported a small arched Roman bridge (see a map and a photograph) that was crossing the rock-cut channel which connects Lake Stroggyli with the sea and which was presumably used in ancient times to draw salt water into the lake for evaporation. Unfortunately the Roman bridge does not exist anymore, apparently it was destroyed (!) immediatelyy after the expedition visited the site. The bridge suggests the existence of a road of importance in ancient times which probably went along the edge of the bay to what is now Elafonisos.

The Pyramid

Another interesting archaeological site in the area is the Pyramid. This can be found 0.9Km W of the general store/OTE station in Viglafia, at the edge of a sharp cliff which rises ca. 270 m to the north of the dirt road to Cape Skala (see here for a map and a plan of the pyramid). The pyramid was first reported by W.M. Leake in his 1806 "Travels in the Morea", and was investigated in 1982-3 by Helena Fracchia from the University of Alberta. Only the square foundation of the pyramid is preserved today carved on the rock, while large ashlar blocks of the pyramid may be seen scattered around and incorporated in a sheephold built into the face of the cliff.

Elafonisos

Some www pages  on Elafonisos may be found here.

Useful Information

Related links and sites 

Pictures Gallery

"Rock. Nothing else. The wild fig tree and the ironstone. An armed sea."
Giannis Ritsos, Monovasia
Image 1 Image 2 Image 3 Image 4
Image 5 Image 6 Image 7
Simos 1 Velanidia   Agios Nikolaos  Simos 2  Neapoli  waterfront
Town Plan  Lachi  1 Viglafia/Antinognatho Pounta    Castle 2
Antinognatho Sunset Neapoli 1 Neapoli 2 Elafonisos 1  Neapoli : Eating Octapus
Neapoli 3 Elafonisos 2   Castle 1 Neapoli 4 Neapoli : Old quarter
Neapoli Bakery  Velanidia 1 Neapoli: Fishing Nets Faraklo Sarakiniko
Cape Maleas Ai Lias Neratziona Beach Paliokastro Agia Irini - Cape Maleas
Neapoli Carnival Neapolis bay Mesochori Neapoli: the catch Simos 3
Archangelos Kastania beach Neapoli: Limanaki Neapoli: Sunset Vatica: Map
Neapolis Elafonisos: Nets Neapoli: Waterfront Elafonisos Simos 4
Elafonisos Neapoli  Elafonisos: Panagia Elafonisos: Boats Fishing
Simos 5 Antinognatho: Ferry Simos 6 Elafonisos Neapoli Blue

Bibliography

This page is currently constructed by Georgios K. Theodoropoulos. For comments and contributions, please email gkt@cs.bham.ac.uk

NOTE: This is a  personal document and does not reflect the views of  The School of Computer Science, University of Birmingham. However, their kind provision of the resources for keeping these www pages is gratefully acknowledged.

 


Come to the luminous beaches, -he murmured to himself
here where the colours are celebrating - look -
here where the royal family never once passed
with its closed carriages and its official envoys.
Come, it won't do for you to be seen - he used to say -
I am a deserter from the night
I am the breacher of darkness
and my shirt and pockets are crammed with sun.
Come - its burning my hands and my chest
Come, let me give it to you
Giannis Ritsos